If you can’t get into your Starlink account because the original email is gone or unreachable, use the methods below in order. The key is that Starlink lets you recover by phone (SMS) as well as by email.

1) Try account recovery by phone (SMS) first

1. Go to Starlink’s Forgot Password page.

2. Switch to “By Phone” and enter the mobile number on the account.

3. Follow the link sent by SMS to set a new password and log in.

4. Once in, go to Settings → Edit Profile and change your account email to your new address, then click the verification link sent to the new email. (Starlink)

Why this works: Starlink’s recovery flow accepts email, mobile, or an alternate email you previously added. Using the phone route bypasses a dead inbox. (Starlink)

2) If you still can’t log in (no access to the phone either)

Use Starlink’s Locked Out help instructions to initiate recovery and reach support. The help article points you to the recovery page and provides a path to contact support if recovery by email/phone fails. (Starlink)

When you contact support, include as many of these as you can to prove ownership:

• Full name and service address on the account

• Account number / Starlink identifier (from old invoices or the router/app if still logged in on another device)

• Dish serial number (on device label or in the app, if accessible)

• Last 4 digits and expiry of the card on file (do not send full card numbers)

• Order number or deposit receipt email headers/screenshots

(Note: Starlink normally funnels support through the account portal, but the locked-out article provides their official route when you cannot log in.) (Starlink)

3) After you regain access: update your contact info

As soon as you’re back in:

1. Settings → Edit Profile → change Email and Phone to ones you control.

2. Open the verification email and click Verify My Email so future resets go to the right inbox. (Starlink)

Extra notes & gotchas

• If you typed your email wrong at signup, Starlink explicitly says to try phone recovery; once you’re in, fix the email in Settings. (Starlink)

• Don’t start a new order with a different email for the same hardware; it won’t transfer your subscription or billing history. Use the recovery steps above or process a formal transfer if ownership is changing. (Starlink)

Quick links (for reference)

• Forgot Password (Email/Phone) flow. (Starlink)

• Locked Out of Account help article (includes what to do if recovery fails). (Starlink)

• Change Email Address (after you log in). (Starlink)

TL;DR: Use the phone-based password reset to get in, then immediately change and verify your account email in Settings. If neither email nor phone works, follow the Locked Out article’s path to reach support with proof of ownership. (Starlink)

Starlink Account Locked - Recovery Page

Why Perform a Factory Reset?

A factory reset completely erases any custom configurations, network names (SSID), and passwords stored on your Starlink system. Common reasons to do a factory reset include:

1. Troubleshooting connection issues – If you’re experiencing persistent drops, throughput problems, or dish connectivity issues, a fresh start can sometimes correct underlying settings or firmware conflicts.
2. Changing ownership – If you’ve sold or transferred your Starlink kit, or you obtained a used system, restoring factory defaults ensures that no personal settings or credentials remain.
3. General performance optimization – After extended use or multiple firmware updates, some users perform periodic resets to maintain a fresh baseline.

Important Note: A factory reset will remove all stored configurations. You will need to set up your Starlink from scratch (using the Starlink mobile app or web interface) once the reset completes.

Identifying Your Starlink Hardware

Before performing a factory reset, it helps to identify which version of Starlink hardware you have. Over time, SpaceX (the parent company of Starlink) has released multiple dish and router designs:

1. Gen 1 (Round Dish / Circular Dishy)

   • Round “Dishy” with a separate router that includes an integrated power supply (often referred to as the “Power Supply Unit”).
   • The router may have a small button labeled “Reset” or “Stow” on the side or bottom.

2. Gen 2 (Rectangular Dish / “Standard” Rectangular Dishy)

   • Rectangular dish with a combined router and power supply “puck” or rectangular router box.
   • The router typically has just a single proprietary cable port for the dish.
   • Newer models may not have any external button.

3. High-Performance Dish or Business Dish

   • A larger, heavier rectangular dish with a slightly different power supply and router design.
   • The core reset method (via the Starlink app or power cycling) is usually the same, although the hardware can look different.

4. Flat High-Performance In-Vehicle Dish (Less common)

   • Specialized hardware intended for in-motion or portable use cases.
   • In most cases, it also follows the same app-based or power-cycling reset instructions.

General Reset Options

1. Software (App) Factory Reset

For nearly all Starlink hardware versions, the Starlink mobile app offers an option to reset or reboot the dish. If your system is functional enough to reach the dish’s internal settings, this is often the easiest and least error-prone method.

1. Open the Starlink App on your smartphone or tablet.
2. Connect to your Starlink Wi-Fi network. (If you’re already connected and using the Starlink system, you can skip this step.)
3. Tap on the Settings or Account menu (the exact label may vary by app version).
4. Look for “Advanced” or “Advanced Settings.”
5. Select “Factory Reset” or “Reset Starlink” (the name can vary slightly).
6. Confirm your choice. The Starlink app will warn you that this will erase all settings and require you to set up the dish again.
7. Wait for the dish and router to fully reset and reboot. This can take several minutes.

Pros: Straightforward, no physical access to the router or dish is required beyond your usual cable connections.

Cons: If you have partial connectivity or the Starlink app can’t connect to the dish properly, you might not be able to use this method.

2. Physical Reset Button (Older Gen 1 Router)

If you have the original round dish with the Gen 1 router, there may be a physical button labeled “Reset,” “Stow,” or just a small pinhole near the base or side of the router/power supply unit.

1. Power on the Starlink system.
2. Locate the physical reset button. It could be under a small pinhole that requires a paperclip, or it might be a small round button on the router’s casing.
3. Press and hold this button for at least 10-15 seconds. In some documentation, SpaceX recommends up to 30 seconds to ensure a complete factory reset.
4. You may see indicator lights flash or change color (if your version has LED indicators). Release the button once you see a change or after 15-30 seconds.
5. Wait for the dish to fully reboot. This can take several minutes. The dish will typically reorient or “hunt” for satellites again.

Tip: Some older user guides reference a “Stow” function on the same button. If you short-press the button, it may stow the dish rather than reset it. Always do a long press if you intend to reset.

3. Power-Cycling Method (Rectangular Dish or High-Performance Dish)

Many of the newer rectangular dish setups do not have a dedicated reset button. Instead, they rely on a power-cycling sequence to trigger a factory reset. This procedure involves removing and reconnecting power multiple times in a specific pattern. Starlink’s official documentation has varied over time, but the most commonly referenced procedure is as follows:

1. Power Off the Starlink System

   • Unplug the Starlink router’s power cable from the wall outlet or remove the inline power cable so that the dish loses power.

2. Wait 10 seconds, then Plug the Power Back In.

   • Let the dish power on for about 30-60 seconds (long enough to start booting up).

3. Repeat the Power Off/On Cycle 3-5 Times in Quick Succession.

   • The typical recommended approach is 3 consecutive power cycles, but some official references or user experiences suggest up to 5 cycles might be more reliable for forcing a reset.
   • Aim for about 30 seconds of “on” time each cycle before unplugging it again. This ensures the dish registers each reboot attempt.

4. Observe Dish Behavior.

   • After the final reconnection, the dish should enter a factory reset sequence.
   • You may notice the dish reorient to default position, the router will revert to its default network name (e.g., “STINKY” or “STARLINK”), and any customized Wi-Fi settings will be lost.

5. Wait for Full Reboot.

   • The entire process can take several minutes. The dish will search for satellites and the router will broadcast the default SSID for setup.

Important: This method can be somewhat finicky. If it does not work on the first try, unplug the system for a full minute, then try the consecutive power-cycle steps again. The key is the consecutive, relatively quick power cycles that signal a reset to the internal firmware.

4. Reset via “Debug” or Web Interface (Less Common)

Some advanced users or beta testers have reported being able to access local debug pages on the Starlink router by navigating to certain local IP addresses (e.g., 192.168.100.1 or a similar range) using a connected computer. However, this approach is not officially supported, and Starlink has locked down many of these debug endpoints in newer firmware updates. Still, if you have an older firmware version:

1. Connect to the Starlink Router via Ethernet or Wi-Fi.
2. Open a web browser and go to http://192.168.100.1/, http://dishy.starlink.com/, or http://starlinkrouter.local/.
3. Look for a Settings or Debug page.
4. If there’s an option for “Factory Reset”, select it and confirm.

Note: Many newer Starlink routers no longer expose these settings pages for average users. The Starlink mobile app is the primary, supported interface.

After the Reset: Setting Up Your Starlink Again

After a successful factory reset, all Starlink routers and dishes revert to their default states. Here’s how to get it back online:

1. Confirm that power is connected and that the dish is physically able to see the sky.
2. On your phone or device, look for the default Starlink Wi-Fi network. It might appear as something like:
   • STINKY + some numbers/letters (older firmware)
   • STARLINK + random characters (newer firmware)
3. Connect to that default SSID.
4. Open the Starlink App. If the app does not automatically detect your new setup, tap “Start Setup” or “Set up Starlink.”
5. Follow the on-screen instructions to:
   • Give your network a new name (SSID).
   • Create a secure Wi-Fi password.
   • Wait for the dish to confirm satellite connectivity and finalize the setup.

Once the setup completes, your Starlink system should be fully restored and back to a normal online state, minus any previous custom configurations (port forwarding, firewall rules, etc. if they existed).

Additional Tips & Best Practices

1. Perform resets indoors if possible (or ensure you have a stable power environment). You might not want to be repeatedly unplugging cables outside, especially in inclement weather.
2. Inspect cables and connectors. If you are already troubleshooting, use the opportunity to confirm that your Starlink cable is not damaged, that connectors are fully seated, and that there is no debris or moisture.
3. Use a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) if your power is unstable. Frequent brownouts or voltage drops might be perceived by the dish as repeated resets, which can lead to confusion or partial resets.
4. Patience is key during reboots. Starlink can take a few minutes (or more) to orient, run initial firmware checks, and find satellites, especially after a fresh factory reset.
5. Keep the Starlink App updated. Features and reset methods can change as SpaceX refines the product. Always check for the latest version of the Starlink mobile app on iOS or Android.

Troubleshooting Reset Failures

• The power-cycling sequence didn’t work.

  • Double-check that you’re timing the cycles correctly. Give the dish about 30 seconds of power each time before unplugging again.
  • Try increasing the number of cycles from 3 to 5 if necessary.
  • Let the system remain powered off for 1-2 minutes, then try again.

• The dish reorients but doesn’t broadcast Wi-Fi afterward.

  • Check that your Starlink cable is secure and not damaged.
  • Make sure you’re checking your phone or device for new Wi-Fi networks. The default SSID might not appear as “Starlink,” but as a new name that you haven’t seen before.

• Physical button reset not responding (Gen 1).

  • Ensure you’re holding the button long enough (15-30 seconds).
  • Some older user guides mention different timing thresholds. Trying multiple durations (10 seconds, 15 seconds, 30 seconds) may help.

• No lights or indication that anything is happening.

  • Older Starlink routers had small LEDs, but many newer ones have no external lights. Rely on the presence of a Wi-Fi signal or the movement of the dish.
  • If the dish never moves or reboots, verify your power source and wall outlet.

Conclusion

Resetting a Starlink terminal to factory settings can often resolve issues and clear away old configurations that might be causing performance or connectivity problems. The exact procedure depends on your Starlink kit’s hardware revision:

• Gen 1 (Round Dish): Use the physical reset button or the app-based reset.
• Gen 2 (Rectangular Dish) & High-Performance Models: Typically reset via the Starlink app or using the power-cycle sequence (3-5 consecutive power cycles).
• All Models: If possible, the easiest method is usually through the Starlink mobile app.

Once reset, you’ll reconfigure the system with a fresh Wi-Fi name and password. Always keep the Starlink app updated and consult official Starlink documentation (or contact SpaceX/Starlink Support) for the most accurate and recent instructions, as firmware and hardware changes can alter specific reset procedures over time.

References & Official Resources

• Starlink Official Support: Starlink Customer Portal
• Starlink App: Available on iOS App Store and Google Play Store
• Community Forums: Reddit’s /r/Starlink, Starlink User Groups on Facebook, etc. (unofficial but helpful user experiences)

Disclaimer: The information provided here reflects publicly shared user experiences and official guidance at the time of writing. SpaceX may update Starlink hardware and software, rendering some steps obsolete or slightly different. Always confirm with the latest Starlink documentation or support channels for your specific hardware revision.

How can I get a list of devices attached to my Starlink router?  I know about the smartphone app but wanted much more detail.

I removed the dish from the mont and drilled 3 holes through for the Stainless steel hardware.

A quick paint job and mounted it on the pole. The existing poles are cemented into the ground when they install it, to get it out I dug down about halfway and then connected it to the tow hitch on my Jeep with a little yank it came right out. A sledge hammer and a few good wacks will get all the cement off the pole pretty easily. Starlink offers a pole setup now but only for 1 size pole and i've noticed all of the other satellite companies are using different size poles. Of course you can always go and buy a section of pipe at the local hardware store to fit the Starlink pole kit but I like to use what's already in my possession if I can.

I located the pole in the best spot I could find in the yard and reburied the pole along with 1 inch conduit for the cable to run in. After 5 bags of quick drying cement the hole was filled, guess I went a little to big on the hole. The cable run can be a bit of a challenge because it is not detachable from the dish. 1 inch conduit was necessary to get the barrels that are on the cable around any radius you may have in the cable conduit run.

Final install, the worst part was getting the cable and conduit under my 20 foot wide driveway, had to use the wash technique with 20" of PVC pipe and a water hose. The Starlink setup was obviously designed to be setup as easily as possible but I think there should be other options for a more permanent install. I can't tell you how aggravating it is trying to work with the dish with the cord being unable to detached from it. And the thought of having to replace the dish if something ever happened to it, i will never be able to pull the cable back through.

I have the Wired LAN adaptor and am using it to connect to a Raspberry Pi running Pi Core Player. To move the Rasp Pi from one house to another, I need to boot it wired to the router, then address it from another computer on the network by typing the IP address of the Pi into the Windows file manager command line. Then I can change the name of the WiFi network in the Pi. It's the only way to update the software for the different location. I can't seem to be able to do this as every time I try to access it's IP address I get a The Device does not respond message. 

In the Starlink App, when I open any of the device pages (it's where I get the IP address), there is a yellowish box that says ROUTER NOT ON ACCOUNT. Then it says to reboot. I've done that a few times. Even did a factory reset a couple of times where I needed to reenter the Network name and password.

Makes not difference. I don't know if the two things are related. The Pi worked fine when we were here in November.

Thanks,

Chuck

I tried it both ways with different results, proving it had nothing to do with the 3rd Party Router involved but is indeed on StarLink's end, unlike what the useless low-level Help Desk general support workers regurgitating their text-book Manual from being slackers in Reading Comprehension or just from lack in English Language Reading Comprehension skills in general (yikes, I can't believe I have to pay for this type of customer service (I get better user support from FOSS/FLOSS community projects lol).

Thus, this has nothing to do with

"... how the 3rd Party Router is setup"

that is just an excuse not to perform on the job to provide quality StarLink customer service.

Proof:

I have the same setup, yet when I changed the "order of operations" StarLink gave me different results within the app. This is a StarLink issue in that there is a failure for competent support technicians servicing customers as well as lacking Documentation to clearly say how to setup a 3rd Party Router from StarLink's side

(I understand other factors will depend upon the 3rd Party Router, but again this is not the issue as the issue really is on StarLink's side despite their attempts to ignore it).

The issue is clearly there is a proper "Order of Operations" before even toggling "on" Bypass Mode, and yet this is not within the in-app Documentation nor has been addressed by Customer Support through a Support Ticket because I keep ending up with non-English speaking low-level Help Desk Technicians that apparently only know how to memorize text-book replies without any Reading Comprehension skills whatsoever.

Question remains,

which these scenarios within the StarLink app suggest the correct order has been achieved, so to proceed onto the step of Bypass Mode?

1. before moving to the step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode, once wired up connections have been established, the app shows all devices even wired devices connected behind the 3rd Party Router.

• example,

StartLink app shows:

- StarLink Modem

- my iPhone

- my 3rd Party Router that is connected to StarLink modem

- my laptop connected on that 3rd Party Router

OR

2. before moving to the step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode, once wired up connections have been established, the app shows only wired devices connected in front of the 3rd Party Router.

• example,

StartLink app shows:

- StarLink Modem

- my iPhone

- my 3rd Party Router that is connected to StarLink modem

OR

3. before moving to the step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode, once wired up connections have been established, the app shows NO wired devices connected relating to the 3rd Party Router.

• example,

StartLink app shows:

- StarLink Modem

- my iPhone

OR

4. before moving to the step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode, once wired up connections have been established, the app shows NO connected devices at all — including failing to show my iPhone.

• example,

StartLink app shows:

- StarLink Modem

Which of these 4 scenarios is the ideal result prior to moving onto the next step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode?

Clearly only 1 of these or some of these scenarios is the accurate sign of "good to go" before proceeding to toggle "on" the Bypass Mode for completing the process.

Depending on the steps I take upon "resetting" the StarLink modem and the steps in certain order I do when connecting up the Ethernet cables, varying the method of Ordered Operations yields these 4 different scenarios based upon how I did it. I have gotten all 4 of these at least once during my time in trying to Troubleshoot as to why I cannot ping out to the Internet when set in Bypass Mode linked up from StarLink Gen3 to my 3rd Party Router on an Ethernet cat 6a wired connection.

So, again, which scenario is the correct setup on the StarLink side?

(as this is all shown from the StarLink app btw)

This is NOT a 3rd Party issue this is a StarLink Gen3 issue; in that StarLink has failed to document the Order of Operations prior to placing the StarLink Gen3 modem into ByPass Mode.

Please, help if you know any of these answers as I really need to get this done as I have wasted 4 days on it already with basically non-existing StarLink customer service user support.

Thank you all in advance!

(due to Forum technical difficulties in formatting turning all my text black thus rendering it unreadable; so I have resubmitted my new threat topic post)

I suspect the "Order of Operations" here are important. I even saw a video online suggesting that prior to linking StarLink modem to a secondary 3rd Party Router one must allow the StarLink Modem to first obtain its own IP Address before linking an Ethernet wired connection to the 3rd Party Router (and long before toggling on Bypass Mode).

I tried it both ways with different results, proving it had nothing to do with the 3rd Party Router involved but is indeed on StarLink's end, unlike what the useless low-level Help Desk general support workers regurgitating their text-book Manual from being slackers in Reading Comprehension or just from lack in English Language Reading Comprehension skills in general (yikes, I can't believe I have to pay for this type of customer service (I get better user support from FOSS/FLOSS community projects lol).

Thus, this has nothing to do with

"... how the 3rd Party Router is setup"

that is just an excuse not to perform on the job to provide quality StarLink customer service.

Proof:

I have the same setup, yet when I changed the "order of operations" StarLink gave me different results within the app. This is a StarLink issue in that there is a failure for competent support technicians servicing customers as well as lacking Documentation to clearly say how to setup a 3rd Party Router from StarLink's side

(I understand other factors will depend upon the 3rd Party Router, but again this is not the issue as the issue really is on StarLink's side despite their attempts to ignore it).

The issue is clearly there is a proper "Order of Operations" before even toggling "on" Bypass Mode, and yet this is not within the in-app Documentation nor has been addressed by Customer Support through a Support Ticket because I keep ending up with non-English speaking low-level Help Desk Technicians that apparently only know how to memorize text-book replies without any Reading Comprehension skills whatsoever.

Question remains,

which these scenarios within the StarLink app suggest the correct order has been achieved, so to proceed onto the step of Bypass Mode?

1. before moving to the step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode, once wired up connections have been established, the app shows all devices even wired devices connected behind the 3rd Party Router.

• example,

StartLink app shows:

- StarLink Modem

- my iPhone

- my 3rd Party Router that is connected to StarLink modem

- my laptop connected on that 3rd Party Router

OR

2. before moving to the step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode, once wired up connections have been established, the app shows only wired devices connected in front of the 3rd Party Router.

• example,

StartLink app shows:

- StarLink Modem

- my iPhone

- my 3rd Party Router that is connected to StarLink modem

OR

3. before moving to the step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode, once wired up connections have been established, the app shows NO wired devices connected relating to the 3rd Party Router.

• example,

StartLink app shows:

- StarLink Modem

- my iPhone

OR

4. before moving to the step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode, once wired up connections have been established, the app shows NO connected devices at all — including failing to show my iPhone.

• example,

StartLink app shows:

- StarLink Modem

Which of these 4 scenarios is the ideal result prior to moving onto the next step of toggling "on" Bypass Mode?

Clearly only 1 of these or some of these scenarios is the accurate sign of "good to go" before proceeding to toggle "on" the Bypass Mode for completing the process.

Depending on the steps I take upon "resetting" the StarLink modem and the steps in certain order I do when connecting up the Ethernet cables, varying the method of Ordered Operations yields these 4 different scenarios based upon how I did it. I have gotten all 4 of these at least once during my time in trying to Troubleshoot as to why I cannot ping out to the Internet when set in Bypass Mode linked up from StarLink Gen3 to my 3rd Party Router on an Ethernet cat 6a wired connection.

So, again, which scenario is the correct setup on the StarLink side?

(as this is all shown from the StarLink app btw)

This is NOT a 3rd Party issue this is a StarLink Gen3 issue; in that StarLink has failed to document the Order of Operations prior to placing the StarLink Gen3 modem into ByPass Mode.

Please, help if you know any of these answers as I really need to get this done as I have wasted 4 days on it already with basically non-existing StarLink customer service user support.

Thank you all in advance!

Need to add multiple units but need each unit to pay using its own credit card.

Is this possible or is there only one credit card per account allow?

If they have to be separate counts can will I still be able to remotely monitor each unit given they are under separate acoounts?

I know this has been brought up in another post, but we are now in the Q2 of 2022 and StarLink has made available the Business Services. 

Starlink

There website does outline the following: 

Starlink Business customers will benefit from 24/7, prioritized support and a publicly routable IPv4 address.

Publicly routable IPv4 address is a shady term it may not mean Static IP.

Is anyone in this forum already on the Business service can confirm if Static IP's are offered now? 

Would really appreciate the feedback. 

Cheers

wont do a  speedtest.

Would I be better off, just cutting, and then soldering/insulating all of the twisted pairs together? 

Thoughts?

Thanks