StarlinkLeader

How-To: Recover your Starlink account if you no longer have access to the email If you can’t get into your Starlink account because the original email is gone or unreachable, use the methods below in order. The key is that Starlink lets you recover by phone (SMS) as well as by email. 1) Try account recovery by phone (SMS) first Go to Starlink’s Forgot Password page. Switch to “By Phone” and enter the mobile number on the account. Follow the link sent by SMS to set a new password and log in. Once in, go to Settings → Edit Profile and change your account email to your new address, then click the verification link sent to the new email. (Starlink) Why this works: Starlink’s recovery flow accepts email, mobile, or an alternate email you previously added. Using the phone route bypasses a dead inbox. (Starlink) 2) If you still can’t log in (no access to the phone either) Use Starlink’s Locked Out help instructions to initiate recovery and reach support. The help article points you to the recovery page and provides a path to contact support if recovery by email/phone fails. (Starlink) When you contact support, include as many of these as you can to prove ownership: Full name and service address on the account Account number / Starlink identifier (from old invoices or the router/app if still logged in on another device) Dish serial number (on device label or in the app, if accessible) Last 4 digits and expiry of the card on file (do not send full card numbers) Order number or deposit receipt email headers/screenshots (Note: Starlink normally funnels support through the account portal, but the locked-out article provides their official route when you cannot log in.) (Starlink) 3) After you regain access: update your contact info As soon as you’re back in: Settings → Edit Profile → change Email and Phone to ones you control. Open the verification email and click Verify My Email so future resets go to the right inbox. (Starlink) Extra notes & gotchas If you typed your email wrong at signup, Starlink explicitly says to try phone recovery; once you’re in, fix the email in Settings. (Starlink) Don’t start a new order with a different email for the same hardware; it won’t transfer your subscription or billing history. Use the recovery steps above or process a formal transfer if ownership is changing. (Starlink) Quick links (for reference) Forgot Password (Email/Phone) flow. (Starlink) Locked Out of Account help article (includes what to do if recovery fails). (Starlink) Change Email Address (after you log in). (Starlink) TL;DR: Use the phone-based password reset to get in, then immediately change and verify your account email in Settings. If neither email nor phone works, follow the Locked Out article’s path to reach support with proof of ownership. (Starlink) Starlink Account Locked - Recovery Page

Ensure your logged into the correct account, reinstall the starlink app - relogin. Login to your account on starlink.com and check the status of your starlink terminal.

Id recommend contacting the provider for the opi and vri.

Can you post in english? Thanks 🙂

We are not starlink support - I'd recommend reaching out on the starlink website or app and ask to talk to a human.

How-To: Recover your Starlink account if you no longer have access to the email If you can’t get into your Starlink account because the original email is gone or unreachable, use the methods below in order. The key is that Starlink lets you recover by phone (SMS) as well as by email. 1) Try account recovery by phone (SMS) first Go to Starlink’s Forgot Password page. Switch to “By Phone” and enter the mobile number on the account. Follow the link sent by SMS to set a new password and log in. Once in, go to Settings → Edit Profile and change your account email to your new address, then click the verification link sent to the new email. (Starlink) Why this works: Starlink’s recovery flow accepts email, mobile, or an alternate email you previously added. Using the phone route bypasses a dead inbox. (Starlink) 2) If you still can’t log in (no access to the phone either) Use Starlink’s Locked Out help instructions to initiate recovery and reach support. The help article points you to the recovery page and provides a path to contact support if recovery by email/phone fails. (Starlink) When you contact support, include as many of these as you can to prove ownership: Full name and service address on the account Account number / Starlink identifier (from old invoices or the router/app if still logged in on another device) Dish serial number (on device label or in the app, if accessible) Last 4 digits and expiry of the card on file (do not send full card numbers) Order number or deposit receipt email headers/screenshots (Note: Starlink normally funnels support through the account portal, but the locked-out article provides their official route when you cannot log in.) (Starlink) 3) After you regain access: update your contact info As soon as you’re back in: Settings → Edit Profile → change Email and Phone to ones you control. Open the verification email and click Verify My Email so future resets go to the right inbox. (Starlink) Extra notes & gotchas If you typed your email wrong at signup, Starlink explicitly says to try phone recovery; once you’re in, fix the email in Settings. (Starlink) Don’t start a new order with a different email for the same hardware; it won’t transfer your subscription or billing history. Use the recovery steps above or process a formal transfer if ownership is changing. (Starlink) Quick links (for reference) Forgot Password (Email/Phone) flow. (Starlink) Locked Out of Account help article (includes what to do if recovery fails). (Starlink) Change Email Address (after you log in). (Starlink) TL;DR: Use the phone-based password reset to get in, then immediately change and verify your account email in Settings. If neither email nor phone works, follow the Locked Out article’s path to reach support with proof of ownership. (Starlink) Starlink Recovery Page

Splicing a Starlink run mid-way to regular Ethernet (Cat6) Works best for Gen 3 Standard/Mini (they use near-standard RJ45 + PoE). Gen 2 rectangular (“Dishy”) uses non-standard PoE and proprietary ends—see the Gen 2 note at the end before you cut anything. What you’re doing (plain English) You’ll cut the Starlink dish-to-router cable at your chosen midpoint, crimp shielded RJ45 plugs on the two cut ends, and bridge that gap with a length of outdoor, shielded Cat6 using weatherproof, shielded inline couplers. Electrically it stays straight-through (T-568B), and PoE still rides the same pairs. Gen 3 supports this because it’s essentially gigabit Ethernet with 48–57 V PoE over a standard pinout. (Gist) Parts & tools Outdoor-rated shielded Cat6 (STP), 23–24 AWG. Shielded RJ45 plugs (for stranded outdoor cable, if your Starlink lead is stranded) + strain relief boots. Shielded RJ45 inline couplers, ideally IP67 gel-filled/weatherproof (you need two: one each side of the new Cat6 segment). RJ45 crimp tool, cable jacket stripper, side cutters. Continuity/network tester (optional but recommended). Self-amalgamating rubber tape + UV-resistant electrical tape (extra weather sealing). If you’d rather buy a plug-and-play Gen 3 extension, purpose-made Starlink Gen 3 outdoor cables exist, but the method below lets you insert any length you want. (powertec.co.nz) Step-by-step (Gen 3 Standard/Mini) Power down the router/power supply. Pick your splice point in a dry, accessible spot (or be ready to weatherproof thoroughly). Cut the Starlink cable at the midpoint. Prep the two cut ends Score back ~25 mm (1") of outer jacket. Keep the foil/drain/shield intact as much as possible. Starlink’s dish lead is shielded Cat5e/6. (Gist) Terminate both cut ends with shielded RJ45 plugs (T-568B) From pin 1→8 (clip down, contacts up): W-Orange, Orange, W-Green, Blue, W-Blue, Green, W-Brown, Brown. Ensure the shield/drain bonds to the metal shell of the RJ45. (Reddit) Make your extension Cut your outdoor Cat6 to length and terminate both ends T-568B (shielded plugs). Test each lead if you have a tester. Join with shielded couplers Coupler A: Starlink-from-dish → Extension. Coupler B (other end of extension): Extension → Starlink-to-router. Use IP67/gel couplers or put the joints in an enclosure. Keep water out. Cable management Keep bends gentle. Maintain pair twist right up to the plug. Bond/ground the shield path end-to-end via shielded connectors/couplers. Power up & test Reconnect power. You should see link come up within a minute or two; the router powers the dish with PoE over the same cable. Limits & tips Keep the total copper length ≤ 100 m including your new segment. (You’re carrying gigabit data and PoE.) Gen 3 uses ~48–57 V PoE from the router/power unit; good copper (23–24 AWG) helps reduce voltage drop on longer runs. (Gist) Gen 3 routers have two LAN RJ45 ports under the rear cover if you need to connect other gear/switches (don’t confuse those with the dish port). (Starlink) Quick pinout reference (T-568B, both ends) Pin Wire 1 White/Orange 2 Orange 3 White/Green 4 Blue 5 White/Blue 6 Green 7 White/Brown 8 Brown Gen 3 dish lead/checks routinely show standard T-568B on testers; the key is preserving shielding. (Reddit) Weatherproofing the joints If your couplers aren’t IP-rated, wrap each joint with self-amalgamating rubber tape, then overwrap with UV electrical tape. Mount splices out of direct splash or inside a small weatherproof junction box. Gen 2 rectangular dish (important caution) Gen 2 uses non-standard PoE (the orange/green pairs are positive, blue/brown are negative) at ~48 V from the router, and the stock cable ends are proprietary. Mis-wiring can damage the dish or your gear. If you simply pass all eight conductors straight-through with shield continuity (no injectors/switches in between), a mid-span splice can work electrically—but you must not plug that line into a normal switch/PoE midspan. Most people either: Use the official Ethernet Adapter to break out LAN at the router side, or Follow a proven DIY PoE injector guide only if you know exactly what you’re doing. (olegkutkov.me) Short version for Gen 2: unless you’re comfortable with non-standard PoE polarity, don’t re-engineer the power path—keep the run straight-through and shielded, or use the Starlink/3rd-party adapter designed for it. (amazon.com) Troubleshooting No link/power: Re-crimp with T-568B on all 4 pairs; check that the connector shells and couplers are shielded and making contact. Works then drops: Suspect voltage sag on long runs—use thicker copper (23 AWG), shorten the run, or relocate the splice. LAN or switch in the middle? Do not insert a standard switch between dish and router. The dish link is PoE power + data dedicated for Starlink. References Starlink Gen 3 uses near-standard Ethernet/PoE; T-568B terminations reported by users. (Peplink Community) Starlink cable is shielded Cat5e/Cat6 carrying ~48–57 V PoE from the router/power unit. (Gist) Official Gen 3 LAN ports & kit specs. (Starlink) Non-standard PoE polarity on Gen 2 and Ethernet-adapter internals. (Gist) Off-the-shelf Gen 3 extension cables (optional). (powertec.co.nz) TL;DR For Gen 3: cut → crimp shielded RJ45s (T-568B) → add shielded outdoor Cat6 with IP-rated couplers → keep total ≤ 100 m → don’t put a switch in that run. For Gen 2: avoid unless you know the non-standard PoE; keep straight-through or use the proper adapter.

Try running a VPN, but via a local/nearby server. Half of the trouble is MTU, Jitter. Jitter = not ideal for gaming, streaming. Ensure your connected via ethernet, not over WiFi as occasionally the router will move to a busy channel.

If you connect one deco via ethernet, the other deco nodes will connect via mesh wireless. If they didnt - it would be in efficient and id look at other wifi mesh solutions. Just double check 🙂

Id recommend contacting Roku, as it appears that it is a network based issue on Roku. They can block Starlink for regional control over media licensing.

The starlink mini does have an ethernet port, pull out the weather plug. you can use Starlink routers (specifically Gen 3 and Mini routers) to mesh with a Starlink Mini for improved coverage, either wirelessly or using a wired Ethernet connection. A wired connection is the recommended method for best performance, especially since the Starlink Mini's built-in Wi-Fi range can be weak. You will need the Starlink Ethernet cable or another standard Ethernet cable and a compatible Starlink router You can mesh them to Starlink mini. Or you can plug in a 3rd party WiFi AP via ethernet, and then run it out to the container, and boom. youve got internet in the container. Hope this helps.

Definitely the cable 🙂

You can use VPN on starlink all OK.

Youtube.com and some other google services have been reported as unavailable. More information to come.

I'd recommend submitting a support ticket to Starlink within your app as this is most likely a logistics/distribution error, whereby the wrong label has been applied to the wrong box... Bit unfortunate, but i'm confident that Starlink support via support ticket will assist and help you out with getting a new unit. ( and removing the other terminal from your app 😄 )