Are there problems extending the kit's cable with ethernet cat6 ?

[andré full of questions...]

I received my starlink kit one week ago, and it works fine from my terrasse, but I need to fix it on a wall  far from the house : could I use the kit's cable to connect the antenna  to an existing ethernet cat 6 cable (about 25m) that goes into the house, and put the router there ? Won't I  get POE problems? This cable goes to the main fuse box :  interferences ?

[StarlinkLeader]

Splicing a Starlink run mid-way to regular Ethernet (Cat6)

Works best for Gen 3 Standard/Mini (they use near-standard RJ45 + PoE).
Gen 2 rectangular (“Dishy”) uses non-standard PoE and proprietary ends—see the Gen 2 note at the end before you cut anything.

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What you’re doing (plain English)

You’ll cut the Starlink dish-to-router cable at your chosen midpoint, crimp shielded RJ45 plugs on the two cut ends, and bridge that gap with a length of outdoor, shielded Cat6 using weatherproof, shielded inline couplers. Electrically it stays straight-through (T-568B), and PoE still rides the same pairs. Gen 3 supports this because it’s essentially gigabit Ethernet with 48–57 V PoE over a standard pinout. (Gist)

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Parts & tools

• Outdoor-rated shielded Cat6 (STP), 23–24 AWG.

• Shielded RJ45 plugs (for stranded outdoor cable, if your Starlink lead is stranded) + strain relief boots.

• Shielded RJ45 inline couplers, ideally IP67 gel-filled/weatherproof (you need two: one each side of the new Cat6 segment).

• RJ45 crimp tool, cable jacket stripper, side cutters.

• Continuity/network tester (optional but recommended).

• Self-amalgamating rubber tape + UV-resistant electrical tape (extra weather sealing).

If you’d rather buy a plug-and-play Gen 3 extension, purpose-made Starlink Gen 3 outdoor cables exist, but the method below lets you insert any length you want. (powertec.co.nz)

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Step-by-step (Gen 3 Standard/Mini)

1. Power down the router/power supply.

2. Pick your splice point in a dry, accessible spot (or be ready to weatherproof thoroughly).

3. Cut the Starlink cable at the midpoint.

4. Prep the two cut ends

   • Score back ~25 mm (1") of outer jacket.

   • Keep the foil/drain/shield intact as much as possible. Starlink’s dish lead is shielded Cat5e/6. (Gist)

5. Terminate both cut ends with shielded RJ45 plugs (T-568B)
   From pin 1→8 (clip down, contacts up): W-Orange, Orange, W-Green, Blue, W-Blue, Green, W-Brown, Brown.
   Ensure the shield/drain bonds to the metal shell of the RJ45. (Reddit)

6. Make your extension

   • Cut your outdoor Cat6 to length and terminate both ends T-568B (shielded plugs).

   • Test each lead if you have a tester.

7. Join with shielded couplers

   • Coupler A: Starlink-from-dish → Extension.

   • Coupler B (other end of extension): Extension → Starlink-to-router.

   • Use IP67/gel couplers or put the joints in an enclosure. Keep water out.

8. Cable management

   • Keep bends gentle.

   • Maintain pair twist right up to the plug.

   • Bond/ground the shield path end-to-end via shielded connectors/couplers.

9. Power up & test

   • Reconnect power.

   • You should see link come up within a minute or two; the router powers the dish with PoE over the same cable.

Limits & tips

• Keep the total copper length ≤ 100 m including your new segment. (You’re carrying gigabit data and PoE.)

• Gen 3 uses ~48–57 V PoE from the router/power unit; good copper (23–24 AWG) helps reduce voltage drop on longer runs. (Gist)

• Gen 3 routers have two LAN RJ45 ports under the rear cover if you need to connect other gear/switches (don’t confuse those with the dish port). (Starlink)

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Quick pinout reference (T-568B, both ends)

Pin	Wire
1	White/Orange
2	Orange
3	White/Green
4	Blue
5	White/Blue
6	Green
7	White/Brown
8	Brown

Gen 3 dish lead/checks routinely show standard T-568B on testers; the key is preserving shielding. (Reddit)

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Weatherproofing the joints

• If your couplers aren’t IP-rated, wrap each joint with self-amalgamating rubber tape, then overwrap with UV electrical tape.

• Mount splices out of direct splash or inside a small weatherproof junction box.

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Gen 2 rectangular dish (important caution)

Gen 2 uses non-standard PoE (the orange/green pairs are positive, blue/brown are negative) at ~48 V from the router, and the stock cable ends are proprietary. Mis-wiring can damage the dish or your gear. If you simply pass all eight conductors straight-through with shield continuity (no injectors/switches in between), a mid-span splice can work electrically—but you must not plug that line into a normal switch/PoE midspan. Most people either:

• Use the official Ethernet Adapter to break out LAN at the router side, or

• Follow a proven DIY PoE injector guide only if you know exactly what you’re doing. (olegkutkov.me)

Short version for Gen 2: unless you’re comfortable with non-standard PoE polarity, don’t re-engineer the power path—keep the run straight-through and shielded, or use the Starlink/3rd-party adapter designed for it. (amazon.com)

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Troubleshooting

• No link/power: Re-crimp with T-568B on all 4 pairs; check that the connector shells and couplers are shielded and making contact.

• Works then drops: Suspect voltage sag on long runs—use thicker copper (23 AWG), shorten the run, or relocate the splice.

• LAN or switch in the middle? Do not insert a standard switch between dish and router. The dish link is PoE power + data dedicated for Starlink.

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References

• Starlink Gen 3 uses near-standard Ethernet/PoE; T-568B terminations reported by users. (Peplink Community)

• Starlink cable is shielded Cat5e/Cat6 carrying ~48–57 V PoE from the router/power unit. (Gist)

• Official Gen 3 LAN ports & kit specs. (Starlink)

• Non-standard PoE polarity on Gen 2 and Ethernet-adapter internals. (Gist)

• Off-the-shelf Gen 3 extension cables (optional). (powertec.co.nz)

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TL;DR

For Gen 3: cut → crimp shielded RJ45s (T-568B) → add shielded outdoor Cat6 with IP-rated couplers → keep total ≤ 100 m → don’t put a switch in that run. For Gen 2: avoid unless you know the non-standard PoE; keep straight-through or use the proper adapter.